Heading towards Oklahoma, next stop Ratan, NM

Most of the group on top of Taos Canyon climb, 9,100'

The palisades on the descent from Taos Canyon.

After breakfast with Marcy, and the rest of the group, at Michael's Kitchen in Taos, I started pedaling towards Ratan and Marcy headed to the Albuquerque airport. This cafe /bakery is a very popular place with good reason, the food is good and plentiful.

Another cold morning that started with a 18 mile climb up to 9,100'. Then a 32 mile descent out of hte mountains an onto the western edges of the great plains. What a great ride today. The climb up themountain pass was incredible as was the descent - the views of the mountains - the trees, rapidly flowing river, and the rock formations were breathtaking.

After lunch is was a short 45 miles to Ratan. For the first 30+ miles we still had some descending left to complete with a favorable wind. Then out of nowhere the winds changed to become a viscious headwind. The last miles were incredibly difficult as my legs were growing tired with each revoltion of the pedals. The Holiday Inn Express couldn't come fast enough.

Several flat tires today, 3 in all; none of them mine. The ride covered 95 miles. 4,280' of climbing today; 2,780 kcals burned.

One more day in NM as we head to Clayton tomorrow.

The long road to Taos

Standing at the Continental Divide in New Mexico

The long road to Taos

No "Welcome to New Mexico" sign on our route so to this is the best I got!

Spanish Omelet with red and green chili's; Breakfast in Taos

Taos Plaza and the Hotel La Fonda

Chores on my rest day in Taos!!

I took Marcy out to see the Rio Grande River Gorge, 7 miles outside of Taos.

Nearly 700' to the bottom of the gorge.

Date night in Taos; dinner at a nice quiet restaurant.

The most unique Caesar Salad I've ever eaten; delicious too.

To get to Taos in the daylight, we had to leave Pagosa Springs in darkness. My wake-up call came at 5:00 am, at 6:00 we had to ride 0.5 miles to the little cafe for breakfast for a 6:45 am start on the road just before daybreak. to add to the adventure, the morning temperature was 33 degress!

With my headlight strobe flashing, my tailights on and my teeth chattering, I was on the road to meet Marcy later inthe afternoon on Taos. The layers i had on worked but my bike wasn't. The cold temperatures kept my SRM Power meter from working for nearly one hour; my rear gear shifter would not change gears for me for nearly 30-35 miles. I was basically stuck on a two gear bike as I could only shift between my large and small chain ring. This made climbing extra hard and descending a total aggrevation as i had to basically coast downhill. As the temperatures warmed up, I started to get some response from my right hand gear shifter.

After lunch at mile 47, the serious climbing would begin. Earlier in the day we crossed over the continental divide shortly after crossing into New Mexico. Now we were heaed to a mountain pass at 10,500'. At lunch i got ride of my layers as the sun was out; little did i know what lie ahead. With all off the bike problems early in the day I expended a lot of extra energy up to mile 71 and i was at 8,500 feet, the highest i had ever ridden. In the next 9 miles i would have to climb another 2,000', than still ride another 60 miles to Taos. Clouds were dark at the top of the mountain. I decided to ocnserve my energy, taking the support van to the peak.

At the peak, I met up with the Colorado trio. As soon as i got out of the van, got my layers back on, the hail started to fall. We took off thinking we had a long downhill and a quick ride out of hte weather. We didn't look at the elevation chart of the ride! We had a two mile decent to 9,700' returning to a climb back to 10,300' all in a steady rain. I was cruising along despite the rain then i flatted. Believe me there are many things i would rather do than change i rear wheel bike tire in a cold steady rain. By the time i finished, I was chilled to the bone. I started downhill only to stop as I was in a "speed wobble" that was caused my trembling so I stopped to eat an energy bar and drink some liquid. Fortunately the support van came by and I got in to warm up.

Once I got rid of the chill, ate an orange, and changed to some dry clothes, I was once again on my way. The downhill finally became fun! For over twenty miles I rode down to the Taos valley averaging over 25 mph. As the rollers came into play so did more rain. At one point I found the sun shining on my right ear and rain falling on my left.

It was now past 4 pm, over 9 hours on the road and I was out of gas at mile marker 124. When I got to the hotel, I found Marcy had already arrived so I went up to the room and gave her a big hug and kiss.

I burned over 4,000 kcals today. 1 flat tire.

I'm looking forward to my rest day with Marcy in Taos.

Part 2: My rest day.

After a delicious breakfast at Michael's Kitchen we took a walk through the plaza of Taos which is filled with art galleries and custom jewelry shops typically filled with items from the local indian tribes and the various artists.

One necessary chore had to be taken care of today - wash my clothes, which I'm getting good at but don't tell my wife.

Once the chore was done, I took Marcy to see the Rio Grande River Gorge; this gorge is nearly 700' deep. On the bridge overlooking the gorge was quite the experience as the bridge vibrated whenever a tractor trailer passed over it.

After a short nap and additional shopping, we had a nice quiet dinner at "Byzantium" where we experienced unique presentations of our dinner selections; delicious also. Lastly, a visit to the Rocky Mountain Chocolate Factory capped off our day.

Going to Pagosa Springs

Onward to Pagosa Springs

Fall colors in the mountains

Chimney Rock

The highlight of this day was the view of Chimney Rock. Another cool start - 52 degrees with sporadic showers.

In Pagosa the temperature is in the upper 60's with lots of clouds. Fortunately it wasn't too windy. The hotel we're at has a series of hot springs; the sulphur smell is very prevalent, even in our rooms.

Need to rest for the big one tomorrow, 140 miles to Taos and a rest day!

Climbing the Rockies to Durango

Looking down the hill towards Durango

Looking out over the hills surrounding Durango

Looking back up the mountain as we headed into Durango

I left a brisk Cortez this morning at 8:15 where the temp was 54 degrees for our first real climb into the Rockies. Today we covered 44 miles, most of it uphill. the last nine was downhill which made for a awesome descent. The view near the top of the mountain was incredible.

The only weather issue with today's ride was a brief but cold rain shower at 22 miles into the ride. Thankfully i had my layers on. a few of the other riders had to stop and put extra clothes on; I just kept pedaling. Pedaling to stay warm.

Today's ride peaked at 8,200'. I made sure I was smiling as I went the last mile up to the top as friends of mine who drove this same highway a few weeks ago told me they saw a lot of unhappy bikers climbing this hill in the rain and sleet.

On the descent I hit 39 mph as the shoulders of this road were great. There was also very minimal traffic for a Friday morning.

Once at the hotel, the good day turned bad! Several of our group me included have been suffering from altitude sickness these last several hours. Not fun! I've been resting in bed since early afternoon.

Onward to Colorado!

Mexican Hat (click to enlarge for better perspective) at near sunrise.

More Red Rock Formations in Utah

Most of our group at the Colorado Border (Ricky Bobby missing as he was too fast for the rest of us, he was on his way to the Four Corners Monument)

Shipwreck Rock in New Mexico as seen from Colorado!

The long road to Cortez, CO, about 25 miles away!

We didn't stay in Utah long, but it was magnificent. The red rock formations will be forever etched in my memory.

The restaurant for breakfast was a little country diner that got slammed with customers just after we arrived at 7:00 am. Fortunately, I got my order in before the stampede. Immediately after breakfast our warm-up consisted of a 0.4 mile incline at 8%! Not a fun way to start. Over the first 40 miles today we climbed nearly 2,500' but only gained 250' in elevation. We had one great downhill where I hit 39 mph; the long uphill that followed was on the same grade as the descent. Needless to say most of that climb was in the granny gear with a speed less than 10 mph.

The town of Mexican Hat is named after a famous rock formation that you will se in the photos above. Incredible that this rock stays perched as it does with the winds that blow through this place. The formations similar to Monument Valley continued for about another 10 miles out of town, then the rolling hills really started and the landscape become wide open fields.

By the time I reached the Colorado border, I had nearly 4,000' of climbing in, now with a net elevation gain of 900'. For the day the 100 mile ride had over 5,900' feet of climbing, our biggest day so far. Net elevation gain over 1,800'.

The hills took their toll today, especially as the day wore on and the temperature rose. I cannot believe how much liquid I'm drinking, fruit i'm eating besides all of theo ther food during the day and I am constantly thirsty. The wind dries you out. Now that we;re getting higher elevations, the air is cooler so you feel a certain coolness from your sweat. However when tyou slow down or stop, the sun bakes you.

No flat tires today, for any of us!

Burned another 3,000+ kcals today.

Tomorrow we climb to Durango. We top out at 8,400' before descending into town. Only 43 miles so we'll have the rest of the day to rest and explore.

On to Utah!

After a cold morning ride out of Tuba City at daybreak (49 degrees), the day warmed up as the miles piled up -117 of them today. The highlight of the trip was Monument Valley. The red rock formations will blow your mind.

I didn't get off the bike until almost 3:30 today as I flatted just over the Utah state line on a long climb in the Monument Valley on the road where the Forrest Gump sequence was filmed - Run Forrest, Run.

After another great massage, I had an great 18 oz Ribeye steak grilled to near perfection at a outdoor restaurant named the Swingin' Steak. The steaks on placed on a grill that swings back and forth over a fire pit!

We climber over 4,200 feet today but in the end we dropped over 750' in elevation. I burned 3,300 kcals. My average speed was 16.85 which was helped by the massive descent in to Mexican Hat, UT where I topped 45 mph!

On the Road Again!

The Colorado River along the East Rim

Little Colorado River Gorge

Leaving the Grand Canyon in the chilly morning after a great recovery day took a lot longer than anticipated. First it was cold this morning as the overnight low hit 31 degrees! At 7:00 am it was only 44. Second, no one was in a hurry to get to Tuba City. Lastly, the East Rim and Little Colorado River Gorge provided more breathtaking scenery to forever etch my brain. Pictures cannot do justice to this Wonder of the World. I would encourage everyone to make the Grand Canyon a destination on your "Bucket List." Take 64 east out of hte main park area and work your way to the Glen Canyon area and Monument Valley (this is where we go tomorrow; and if today is a preview, tomorrow will be awesome).

today's ride was a little over 86 miles. We started at 7,000' made our way along the East Rim climbing over rollers to an eventual elevation of 7,550', then the fun descent started over 30 miles we dropped to 4,000'. We rode 57 miles to lunch, which today was at a deli market. After a large turkey sandwich, a 10 oz tomato juice and 12 oz grapefruit juice and a small bag of pretzels we took off for the climb to Tuba City which is at 4,750'.

up to mile 51 the ride went well, then the flat tires started for "Ricky Bobby" who was riding with Matt and myself. By the end of the day he had 4 flat tires! Traffic also picked up intensity of the last 29 miles. coupled with small shoulders this part of the ride became a grind.

Richard Hanke got tagged "Ricky Bobby" by the Colorado trio once everyone identified him as the group's rabbit. He is definetly a strong rider at age 47. He is also a great phtographer. He rode with Matt and me so he can keep a decent pace, take photos along the way and not ride solo.

Tuba City is a one traffic light town; we had dinner at the only none chain restaurant in town, the local Pizza joint. A far cry from the El Tovar at the GC. However, we got carbo loaded for our next century ride, 112 miles to Mexican Hat, Utah. After tomorrow we will say good-bye to our second state.

I burned over 2,300 kcals today while climbing over 3,800' over 86 miles. Our hotel tonight is at the Grey Hills Inn, not exactly a Hilton but it will do as the bed is comfortable and sleep is calling. This inn is operated by the local high school as a educational program for its students to enter the hospitality industry. The only other hotel in town claimed they could not handle the Trek Travel contingent. Alas, my cell phone is still out of service for a second straight day.

A Rest Day at the Grand Canyon

I woke up at 5:28 this morning and smiled, then went back to sleep. It's a rest day!

Out of bed at 8:15 to a very cool morning. I heard the low last night was 44 degrees. I slept with the windows open and my blanket up to my neck.

After breakfast took a hike along the canyon rim; what a spectacular view. These pictures will not do the majesty of this place justice. I saw several condors flying out over the canyon; perhpas you will spot them in some of the photos.

Once i got back to the lodge, I took a nap then laundry. A great rest day.

Seven of us got together for dinner at El Tovar for dinner. The group let me pick the wine, a Pinot Noir from Oregon. After dinner, on the way to the shuttle bus we spotted for dinner crossing our path. We didn't startle them with our cameras.

Tomorrow we go to Tuba City. After climbing up to nearly 8,000' we have a 30 mile descent ending at ~4,800'.

Grand Canyon Century Ride!

Our home in Seligman, the Historic Rt 66 Motel

Kiabab Lake, north of Williams, Az

Lunch at the Lake, Matt, Richard and Tara (our masseuse)

The Colorado Trio - Gary, Dave, and Greg

At the entrance to the Grand Canyon - Mark, Stephanie (Trek Guide), Richard, Matt, and Frank

Day 8: Seligman to Grand Canyon National Park
106 miles; 6,600 Kcals burned
6:06 riding time

Morning started with breakfast at Westside Lilo's Cafe a great "country diner" with home cooking. We normally had a group breakfast with two of the guys leaving early to get a head start. Breakfast today consisted of two hotcakes, one one, hash browns, 3 strip of bacon, OJ and water. By 6:30 walked back across the street (Rt 66) to finsh backing and making last minute ride preparations prior to rolling out of town.

The morning was cool and crisp, in the 60's, as we left Seligman at 7:00 for out second century ride of the adventure. After our last 18 miles on Route 66 came a 20 mile climb on I-40 to the town of Williams, AZ the main funnel for all tourists headed to the Grand Canyon. After lunch at Kiabab Lake the group headed out for the final 60 miles of today's trip. At this point we climbed from 5,200' to over 6,950'.

The ride to lunch took a little over 3 hours covering 46 miles. the last 60 miles took under 3 hours. Less than 15 mph for part 1; over 20 mph for part 2!

Once we hit about 6,500' on the way to Williams, the geography changed noticeably. Trees started to appear and there was much more color in the foliage. At Kiabab Lake, the water was surrounded by tall pines. I doubt the temps hits 80 degrees today as a cool southerly wind blew steady all day.

After lunch the ride turned nicely in our favor, the wind was behind us and we had downhill for nearly 30 miles. I hit my top speed of 44 mph just prior to starting the final climb up to the Canyon. The only bummer of a downhill on rides like this is we usually have to reclimb it and in this case we climbed up to 7,000' by journeys end. For the day we climbed over 6,000' total over 106 miles.

When we passed through the park entrance we still had 6 miles to go to reach the South Rim. What an awesome sight as I rode up on my bike to see the Grand Canyon. A week ago I was at sea level; today I was looking out over the Grand Canyon! Life is good!

Today's ride was a great confidence booster for this Floridian. We've ridden 677 miles in 8 days. The climbing has been work but i'm handling it well by keeping to my pace. Now that we're out of the heat, I feel stronger so hopefully all will continue to go well.

Although I have laundry to do, I will enjoy my rest day at the Grand Canyon. On Tuesday we head out to Tuba City, AZ, a small town on the Navajo Indian Reservation.

Several flats today - 3 for one of the Colorado trio.

Highlight of the day: my massage was in the trees; listening to the wind blow through the pines was equally relaxing as the message.

Route 66 to Seligman

We left Kingman in the cool morning air for our 83 miles to Seligman. We rode Rt 66 the entire way.

The high temperatures are definitely gone; the wind cool if not cold at times. The wind was brisk out of the south so we had a stiff crosswind almost all day. The winds at times kept pushing the bike sideways.

The highlight of the geography was the Burlington Northern Santa Fe RR ran almost parallel to the road and traffic was nearly constant on the tracks.

Seligman is another little town caught in time. We're staying at the "Historic Route 66 Motel." On the doors to the rooms are name plates highlighting former stars that stayed here. Fro instance Martin milner, one of the stars of the TV series "Route 66" slept in room 101 as did Jon Provost who played Timmie on Lassie. In room 105, Bill Haley's Comets! I didn't notice a nameplate for George Maharis the other star of Route 66.

Our motel rooms have no alarm clocks, no internet access, and no cable TV. They rooms are clean and the bed comfortable. The only downside is about every hour a train rolls through town about 500 yards from my room. I hope i sleep well tonight as we have 105 miles to the Grand Canyon tomorrow.

Dinner was at the original Roadkill Cafe. The place was great - the food good, the beer cheap, and the place filled with elk and bighorn sheep mounted on the walls along with many other memoribilia form the past or past Hollywood stars.

We're now at 5,200 feet above sea level.

Climbing into the mountains; Heat Relief

The start of Rt 66 in Golden Shores AZ

Rt 66 heading towards Oatman

flowering Cactus

The burrows of Oatman

The climb to Sitgreaves Pass

The top at Sitgreaves Pass, 3,550 elev

Today we said goodbye to the extreme heat of the low desert country. As we climbed up to 3,550 the air got cooler however the sun remained bright and warm. This evening in Kingman the temp was a cool 72.

After climbing out of Lake Havasu City on a 13 mile incline relief came with an nice fast downhill, followed by 9 more miles downhill on Interstate 40. Finally we turned north on the original Route 66 towards Oatman. We traveled on Rt 66 for 50+ miles today; the beauty of it is this route is now considered a "historic back country roadway" so we encountered very little traffic, until Oatman.

Oatman came into being in the early 19000's as a gold rush town. Over 18 million ounces of gold came out of the local mines. When the mining was over, the government released all of the burrows into the wild. Now these jackasses are the prime tourist attraction to this near ghost town. Main Street is a trip back in time.

Leaving Oatman for Kingman brought the toughest climb of the trip to tis point, a five mile climb with grades exceeding 12% on the upper 2 miles. After the climb up to Sitgreaves Pass, elevation 3,550 came a 9 mile descent through hairpin turns.

Next came the climb to Kingman; everything we lost in elevation on the descent we now had to reclaim pedaling up to our hotel.

Two flats today; came on the interstate leg. Not mine!

Tomorrow we climb up to 5,300 ft as we head to Seligman, AZ.